Unless otherwise noted, all materials on this blog are (c) 2009 by Madeleine Vedel
My home, my much-loved and cozy place, is just 5 minutes from the walled city of Avignon. I live in the countryside of the island known as Ile de la Barthélasse. Busy here, and enjoying the calm, I confess that I don't go into town that often, but, there are definitely times when the urge hits for a lovely café in a café, a bit of people watching, or, to visit the chic boutiques for a bit of shopping.
Avignon is an easy town to navigate on foot, and, off season on bicycle. In warm weather, I do prefer to come by bike, but then I'm sure to take the smaller side roads, and to avoid the heavily trafficked pedestrian walks. Parking is a bit nightmarish if I choose to bring the car (when it's cold, raining or windy). I'll park right outside the Place de Crillon, or along the ramparts on the inside, or, if there's no other choice, on my side of the river and I'll just walk across the bridge to town.
When I bring friends to Avignon, we do a bit of a whirlwind tour. I will guide them to the Place de l'Horloge, the center of town where the town hall is, many a mediocre cafe, a decent and small cinema, and the perpetual merry-go-round. Then we wander past the street sellers of jewelry and very bright poppy and lavender laden paintings to the Palace of the Popes, and the huge square in front of it. If we are roaming during the month of July -- the month of the theatre festival--we will be accosted by actors in costume with flyers for their plays, or, we may stumble upon an outdoor presentation by a Japanese mime, or a theatre troup playing out scenes from Hôtel du Nord or another classic of the French cinéma répertoire.
If we've a couple of hours to spare, it is worth it to do the audio tour of the Pope's Palace. If you like history that is, and vast, enormous empty spaces. Can you fill your head with the hundreds of velvet clad bishops and church dignitaries, the many supplicants, the miles of tables, laden with food of the richest and most exotic? I love the descriptions in Terry Jones' The Lady and the Squire. Somehow, a former Monty Python just hits it right. The pope was here for nearly 100 years, running away from the Northern hordes who over-ran Rome, and briefly, being a bit more centralized to his vast domain. There is a wall of portraits of the popes, and the dates of their lives, and their reigns. I'm a bit surprised that in general, they were chosen old, and died relatively quickly. Those who lasted more than ten years in their seat were the rare exception.
Back out into the sunlight, out of the underground shop filled with cards, tapestries, local wines, pottery, etc., and around the curving stone path to the tiny square where the hotel/restaurant La Mirande is situated. Now, if a girl wants to feel chic, she goes here for afternoon tea with her girl friends. It's not cheap, but oh, the service is lovely and you do feel ever so elegant. It's rather Breakfast at Tiffany's for me. An exquisite hat and pumps would not be out of place. There is also a dark and brooding full bar where menfolk can smoke their cigars over a whiskey straight up. As you please.
If at the Mirande, don't hesitate to go down that tiny spiral staircase in the corner of the tea room. You'll be in the bowels of the building, but also, beside the fantastic cooking class room that they've installed, with the ancient wood burning stove, copper and pottery to die for, and a cozy and warm atmosphere. It's not too claustrophobic as there is a tiny garden beside that room, so windows let day light in and enliven the senses.
As I leave the hotel, I'll choose the street to the left of the Mirande (as you're looking at the Pope's palace), into a lovely square with cafés, restaurants, tiny shops, etc., There's a pleasant b&b down here as well. For me, it's now time to wander and discover. Eventually, I'll find my way over to Les Halles. Leo loves it here as there is a store called l'Oule (or something like that) that is very dungeons and dragonsish, with magic cards, pokemon cards, etc., This is his destination if and when I permit him to take his own bike (with a friend along) into town. I like the restaurant Françoise across from the Music Conservatory. Good soups, salads, chocolate brownie and tarts, coffee, tea (it's a tea salon), with a hot spot for my wifi. If guiding my friends further, I'll then drift down to the Rue des Teinturiers with its water wheels, theaters, tiny restaurants, and tempting Asian rug store.
As I've had to cope on my bureaucratic life here, I've become acquainted with the social security office, the health center, the family affairs' office, my lawyer's address, the Post Office, Leo's guitar teacher's string instrument repair shop, and more.
More fun is exploring the cinémas, the shops, the remarkably friendly cafés. I once forgot my computer in the café across from Monoprix on the main boulevard. I returned a couple of hours later, and the lady behind the bar was tending it safely for me. Ahhhh. I truly freaked out that I'd put my life in jeopardy. What would I do if I lost my Macbook? Too scary to contemplate.
As I return to a parked car, or bike back out of the city to my island, I'll window shop down the chic shopping street just beside the Place Crillon. Oh, here I get in trouble at shops like Cotelac or One Step. Funky, interesting, feminine, flowing clothes. Just the sort of thing to tempt me to pull out the plastic. But no, I'll wait for the sales in July. I'll be good, this time.
For wonderful photos of Avignon, please take a look at Nathalie's blog noted alongside, Avignon in Photos. She captures the quirks, the beauty, the light, the strange moments, in a marvelous way. My own shots don't compare. Speaking of Nathalie, she's recommended some restaurants for me to try... La Brocantine looks just lovely, tucked away down a teeny side street by the Place de Crillon. It's only open for lunch, with an ever changing menu. I can't wait!
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
A day in Uzès
Unless otherwise noted, all materials on this blog are (c) 2009 by Madeleine Vedel
Rick Steve's writing partner Steve Smith contacted me the other day to help them with the Provence updates for the guide book. And, having worked with them before, and liking them both, I said an enthusiastic YES! He wanted me to take a look at the pages on Avignon, Arles, the Camargue, St. Rémy de Provence, Nîmes and Uzès, as well as Shopping, Children, and Wine tasting. As I live here and I've kids and I've received Rick Steve's clients for years in the b&b, they know that I've a good idea as to what would please these folks, and yes, I've gotten to know this region called Provence (or Southern France) pretty darn well after 15 years of touring around and simply being curious and interested.
So, I set up a few days' of visits and wandering into my schedule. Uzès is a city I've recommended many times, heard good things about, but truly had never been to until spring last year when JP took me there. His cousins live right beside it, so, when the request came my way, I got on the horn and said, Astrid, would you be free to do a day of touring about the region and Uzès with me? help me find some good restaurants, see what's fun for kids, etc.,? She was willing and planned a wonderful day, excepting only b&bs and hotels. Something that locals rarely know much about. So, that will be for another day.
A creative designed planter in Astrid's airy and light kitchen.
Astrid proposed Tuesday last week. A day when Leo was at handball practice all day long, and Jonas with me. Jonas, with crayons, snacks and promises of cookies and cakes, is easy to travel with, so, off we went. She had prepared a super day. Truly, a great friend to have. We headed to the Toy Museum first where we were sadly disappointed, as the super display of kid-sized trains that went through a three dimensional map of Languedoc was no longer. The museum had been burglerized and all these glorious trains were gone. And so was the chance for children to view their region from above. Apparently it had been marvelous, taking the kids from the Pont du Gard, through the cities, the Gorges, the Cévennes hills, to the sea, the salt marshes, Aigues Mortes, the fountain garden in Nîmes... Ah well.
We skipped the Musée de Bonbon -- an effort by Haribo (think gummy bears) to tempt kids into their world (it works). Jonas had already been there with his brother for an earlier birthday with their dad, but it's good to know it is there, right on the road from Remoulins as you enter Uzès.
We visited the Hara center -- a research and traditional stables that has as its aim to maintain the bloodlines of as many of the horses of the world as possible. There is even the room where stallions are tricked into giving up their sperm. Many events happen throughout the year here, and for horse lovers, it is a must-see.
And back to the little city itself of Uzès. There are little to no major monuments to see here. That's not why you come to Uzès, but it is truly a lovely town, beautifully renovated, with boutiques, restaurants, good wine bars, marvelous markets on Wednesday and Saturday (the same days as Arles, hence a reason I'd never been here). Had I felt a bit more flush, my credit cards could have gotten a nice workout in the boutiques.... yes, nice flowing, pretty, feminine clothes, just my style. Of course an elegant lingerie boutique, a super toy store, and even a bistro burger -- good charolais beef burgers (for 10E) or vegetarian options. Not bad at all, though for the record, they weren't making the smoothies advertised on their menu, and the fryer was broken, so no French fries, nor fried cheddar sticks for Jonas. Ah well, the waiters were super nice.
The square has a lovely fountain in the center, where kids of all ages congregate, and stray dogs and cats come by to affectionately beg a bit of their lunches. As you walk about the town -- it is quite small -- there are walls to look over, and a wonderful ancient terrace that is in the happy hands of a stylish Italian pizzeria. There are arcades, lovely vaulted ceilings, attractive stone work, and pleasant, often bi-lingual shop-keepers. It's a city for sitting in cafes, shopping, feeling medievally French, finding lovely plays of light to photograph, admiring stonework. Just come with an open mind and feeling relaxed. A good book in hand would be perfect, or the desire to taste local wines at a funky wine bar. Perhaps the Bar à Vins Du Chai d'Uzès owned by Thierry Ploy.
After lunch, we headed back out to the countryside along some lovely tree covered roads, under aqueducts, and to a spot where we could join a GR (Grande Randonée -- the nationally identified hiking routes) out to the cliffs overlooking the Gardon River. Jonas had a bit of difficulty on the walk -- 1km5 or thereabouts, but not steep. He managed to get out there, but was very happy that I was willing (thank you yoga) to carry him on my back on part of the route back to the car.
Once there, we looked down to the lovely river, and I looked longingly at the hiking paths leading either in the direction of Collias -- a tiny village where many kayaking companies have set up their businesses -- or to Uzès. Astrid had done the path to Collias with her husband on bicycle. They took their time, stopping to explore wind mills, Roman ruins, and more along the way. For me, the Gardon river is the best place to swim in the South. I love the sea, but if you can't shower off when you get out, you go home covered in the dried white salt on your skin. Whereas the Gardon is fresh and clear. Chilly yes, it is a flowing river, but so refreshing. Erick took me to Collias early in our marriage, and when Leo was little we would sit along its banks with a picnic. I was the only one of the three of us who would get in. But I loved it.
For many of my teen groups, we've done the kayak trip from Collias to the Pont du Gard. I adore the look in their eyes as they paddle under one of the most glorious wonders of the world! It is pretty amazing to have that aqueduct up there over your head, huge, solid, still standing after 2000 years.
So, yes, I've some good addresses in the region now. I can't wait to try out the restaurant le Tracteur in Sanilhac, between Collias and Uzès, and to go back for that hike. I also want to spend a market day there in the future... but when I've a bit more cash in my pocket to spend. I'm sure that classy as that town is, the various options, be they pottery or clothing, flea market finds, or other, will be a bit pricey and very tempting.
The classic route from the b&b in Arles is to leave in the morning and visit Aigues-Mortes (the crusaders' city of St. Louis, the 12th century king who briefly was wed to Eleanor of Aquitaine). Then to the Pont du Gard (perhaps taking a dip in the river), then to Uzès for lunch and a wander. Returning by Nîmes for a bit of Roman history (the maison carrée, the Roman fountains in the gardens, and more) perhaps dining here in one of its many restaurants alongside the locals. Then, back to Arles in the late evening. It's a full day, but quite doable. The other option is to spend a night in one of the many b&bs in the Duchy d'Uzès (yes, it was the city of a duke) and thus move more slowly through these wonderful cities. This route is as easily done from Avignon, but in this case, you'd probably skip Aigues Mortes.
Rick Steve's writing partner Steve Smith contacted me the other day to help them with the Provence updates for the guide book. And, having worked with them before, and liking them both, I said an enthusiastic YES! He wanted me to take a look at the pages on Avignon, Arles, the Camargue, St. Rémy de Provence, Nîmes and Uzès, as well as Shopping, Children, and Wine tasting. As I live here and I've kids and I've received Rick Steve's clients for years in the b&b, they know that I've a good idea as to what would please these folks, and yes, I've gotten to know this region called Provence (or Southern France) pretty darn well after 15 years of touring around and simply being curious and interested.
So, I set up a few days' of visits and wandering into my schedule. Uzès is a city I've recommended many times, heard good things about, but truly had never been to until spring last year when JP took me there. His cousins live right beside it, so, when the request came my way, I got on the horn and said, Astrid, would you be free to do a day of touring about the region and Uzès with me? help me find some good restaurants, see what's fun for kids, etc.,? She was willing and planned a wonderful day, excepting only b&bs and hotels. Something that locals rarely know much about. So, that will be for another day.
A creative designed planter in Astrid's airy and light kitchen.
Astrid proposed Tuesday last week. A day when Leo was at handball practice all day long, and Jonas with me. Jonas, with crayons, snacks and promises of cookies and cakes, is easy to travel with, so, off we went. She had prepared a super day. Truly, a great friend to have. We headed to the Toy Museum first where we were sadly disappointed, as the super display of kid-sized trains that went through a three dimensional map of Languedoc was no longer. The museum had been burglerized and all these glorious trains were gone. And so was the chance for children to view their region from above. Apparently it had been marvelous, taking the kids from the Pont du Gard, through the cities, the Gorges, the Cévennes hills, to the sea, the salt marshes, Aigues Mortes, the fountain garden in Nîmes... Ah well.
We skipped the Musée de Bonbon -- an effort by Haribo (think gummy bears) to tempt kids into their world (it works). Jonas had already been there with his brother for an earlier birthday with their dad, but it's good to know it is there, right on the road from Remoulins as you enter Uzès.
We visited the Hara center -- a research and traditional stables that has as its aim to maintain the bloodlines of as many of the horses of the world as possible. There is even the room where stallions are tricked into giving up their sperm. Many events happen throughout the year here, and for horse lovers, it is a must-see.
And back to the little city itself of Uzès. There are little to no major monuments to see here. That's not why you come to Uzès, but it is truly a lovely town, beautifully renovated, with boutiques, restaurants, good wine bars, marvelous markets on Wednesday and Saturday (the same days as Arles, hence a reason I'd never been here). Had I felt a bit more flush, my credit cards could have gotten a nice workout in the boutiques.... yes, nice flowing, pretty, feminine clothes, just my style. Of course an elegant lingerie boutique, a super toy store, and even a bistro burger -- good charolais beef burgers (for 10E) or vegetarian options. Not bad at all, though for the record, they weren't making the smoothies advertised on their menu, and the fryer was broken, so no French fries, nor fried cheddar sticks for Jonas. Ah well, the waiters were super nice.
The square has a lovely fountain in the center, where kids of all ages congregate, and stray dogs and cats come by to affectionately beg a bit of their lunches. As you walk about the town -- it is quite small -- there are walls to look over, and a wonderful ancient terrace that is in the happy hands of a stylish Italian pizzeria. There are arcades, lovely vaulted ceilings, attractive stone work, and pleasant, often bi-lingual shop-keepers. It's a city for sitting in cafes, shopping, feeling medievally French, finding lovely plays of light to photograph, admiring stonework. Just come with an open mind and feeling relaxed. A good book in hand would be perfect, or the desire to taste local wines at a funky wine bar. Perhaps the Bar à Vins Du Chai d'Uzès owned by Thierry Ploy.
After lunch, we headed back out to the countryside along some lovely tree covered roads, under aqueducts, and to a spot where we could join a GR (Grande Randonée -- the nationally identified hiking routes) out to the cliffs overlooking the Gardon River. Jonas had a bit of difficulty on the walk -- 1km5 or thereabouts, but not steep. He managed to get out there, but was very happy that I was willing (thank you yoga) to carry him on my back on part of the route back to the car.
Once there, we looked down to the lovely river, and I looked longingly at the hiking paths leading either in the direction of Collias -- a tiny village where many kayaking companies have set up their businesses -- or to Uzès. Astrid had done the path to Collias with her husband on bicycle. They took their time, stopping to explore wind mills, Roman ruins, and more along the way. For me, the Gardon river is the best place to swim in the South. I love the sea, but if you can't shower off when you get out, you go home covered in the dried white salt on your skin. Whereas the Gardon is fresh and clear. Chilly yes, it is a flowing river, but so refreshing. Erick took me to Collias early in our marriage, and when Leo was little we would sit along its banks with a picnic. I was the only one of the three of us who would get in. But I loved it.
For many of my teen groups, we've done the kayak trip from Collias to the Pont du Gard. I adore the look in their eyes as they paddle under one of the most glorious wonders of the world! It is pretty amazing to have that aqueduct up there over your head, huge, solid, still standing after 2000 years.
So, yes, I've some good addresses in the region now. I can't wait to try out the restaurant le Tracteur in Sanilhac, between Collias and Uzès, and to go back for that hike. I also want to spend a market day there in the future... but when I've a bit more cash in my pocket to spend. I'm sure that classy as that town is, the various options, be they pottery or clothing, flea market finds, or other, will be a bit pricey and very tempting.
The classic route from the b&b in Arles is to leave in the morning and visit Aigues-Mortes (the crusaders' city of St. Louis, the 12th century king who briefly was wed to Eleanor of Aquitaine). Then to the Pont du Gard (perhaps taking a dip in the river), then to Uzès for lunch and a wander. Returning by Nîmes for a bit of Roman history (the maison carrée, the Roman fountains in the gardens, and more) perhaps dining here in one of its many restaurants alongside the locals. Then, back to Arles in the late evening. It's a full day, but quite doable. The other option is to spend a night in one of the many b&bs in the Duchy d'Uzès (yes, it was the city of a duke) and thus move more slowly through these wonderful cities. This route is as easily done from Avignon, but in this case, you'd probably skip Aigues Mortes.
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